Anyone know the impedance of the 4" speakers
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The PRV's, I used, are sold by Parts Express, but also through Amazon(free retunrs), are a perfect fit and definitely fix the amp sim part of the SQ problem( along with blocking the bass port with acoustic foam. I honestly did not buy this for a bluetooth speaker. I guess a coaxial may straddle both worlds. I would worry about the effect on the high freq part of the amp sim. Carl G, what's your 2 cents having replaced the PEM with coax?
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@madmarcus1960 It's working fine for me. I use it around 50/50 for bluetooth music and getting some practice in whilst locked away in my office for the day. Don't really hear any additional hiss or fizz that wasn't already present in the sims. I doubt much if any guitar signal is going to the tweeters. As it's already a processed signal through a bog standard audio amp (TPA3116D2) I don't think you can use the same traditionalist view of 'tweeters are bad in a guitar amp'.
Being honest, if I need awesome tones, it wouldn't be from the spark. It sounds really good for what it is, but it is just a practice amp. I would turn to one of my other amps or stick some headphones on and use my fave plugins (non PG) through my laptop.
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Cool, very happy with how mine turned out as well. Point is their choice of speaker was a economic one, not for any kind of quality!!
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@madmarcus1960 Question for those who have replaced their speakers -- is there any soldering involved or is the Spark built with slip-on connectors on the speaker wires? And do the replacement speakers come with similar attachments?
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@dhbailey Spark has spade connectors to attach the speakers. Depends on the speakers you buy as to whether you would need to solder or crimp new connectors onto them.
The Visaton FR10 4 ohms I've already mentioned have the same connector tags (most should have the same tags) so no soldering
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The PVR, hi fidelity 4" mid driver have the same spade lugs, bigger for +, smaller for -., exact fit, much like my friend Carl's, minus the built in tweeter
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@carl-galilee Thanks for the clarification on the connectors -- so it sounds like a very simple remove and replace operation.
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5-10 minutes max with a plug and play speaker
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@dhbailey I bought the FR10s and installed them no problem - the connectors just need a small careful tug to disconnect and the FR10s fit perfectly in the recessed speaker housing and the screws line up perfectly. However, still very boomy... less so if held at earl level... but that is not a solution.
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@patrick-a-ryan Did you also block the port with foam as was also suggested? The FR10 speakers plus the foam in the port worked for me. The foam is about 3/16” inch thick and about 6-1/2” inch x 5-1/4” inch, rolled up so the 5-1/4” inch length goes in the port. I also tried taping over the port, but the foam sounded better. As the foam holds itself in place, I was able to do lots of “no foam/with foam” back and forth trials with all sorts of tunes from my iPad and also all types of guitar tones from the Spark, and thought the foam with the FR10 speakers was better overall, and closer to the sound thru the headphones (which is how I use the Spark 98% of the time).
FYI to all, the FR10 drivers have a deeper cone and a “whizzer” cone, which gives the speaker more “highs”. The voice coil of the FR10 is 20mm vs. about 16mm on the stock speakers, so in theory the FR10’s will handle more power.
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@bschultz8 thanks man - do you have any tips re: the types of foam? I'm a bit of a noob...
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@patrick-a-ryan Madmarcus1960 mentioned 2 months ago in this thread that he used closed cell foam from Parts Express (And he had a pic). The foam I used was something the girlfriend had laying around, and I think it was open cell foam.